Miyazaki puffed on a cigarette. "Some people may say this girl is a lot like Chihiro. Maybe. But I don't fear that. I think I'd lose a lot more by trying to avoid repeating myself than by just repeating myself. Some people are always trying radically new material. I know what I want, and I'll continue with it." He went on, "I don't have much patience for calculating and intellectualizing anymore. It has to do with the times. Nobody knows everything. Nobody knows what's going to happen. So my conclusion is, don't try to be too smart and wise. Why does anybody feel the way they do? Why is somebody depressed? Or angry? Even if you have a therapist, you're never going to figure it out. You're not going to solve it. Besides, every trauma is an important part of you."

Miyazaki cradled the back of his head with his hand. "I've done things in this movie I wouldn't have done ten years ago," he said. "It has a big climax in the middle, and it ends with a resolution. It's old-fashioned storytelling. Romantic." Indeed, "Howl's Moving Castle" has the first kiss ever in a Miyazaki film, and contains more of an overt love story. "Howl's doesn't have the elegiac beauty of certain sequences in "Spirited Away," nor does it have the emotional delicacy of "Totoro." (The Howl character, a vain, reclusive boy wizard who dresses in capes and epauletted jackets, reminded me somehow of Michael Jackson.) But it does have the director's commanding sense of magic, along with a windy, wildflower-strewn Alpine landscape, and an amusingly cranky fire demon named Calcifer. And the living, breathing, clanking castle is one of Miyazaki's most marvelous designs: it looks like a giant teakettle bristling with turrets and balconies, and shifts about in its metal skin like a rhino, striding across the countryside on, yes, chicken feet.

The afternoon was warm, and outside the window cicadas were making a racket. Miyazaki continued to look twinkly, but nonetheless he began airing a briskly dire view of the world. "I'm not jealous of young people," he said. "They're not really free." I asked him what he meant. "They're raised on virtual reality. And it's not like it's any better in the countryside. You go to the country and kids spend more time staring at DVDs than kids do in the city. I have a place in the mountains, and a friend of mine runs a small junior-high school nearby. Out of twenty-seven pupils, he told me, nine do their schoolwork from home! They're too afraid to leave their homes." He went on, "The best thing would be for virtual reality just to disappear. I realize that with our animation we are creating virtual things, too. I keep telling my crew, 'Don't watch animation! You're surrounded by enough virtual things already.' "

We walked out to the rooftop garden that Goro had designed as a place where staff could rest and recharge. The studio's four small buildings are lovely, and are complete with Miyazakian refinements. In some workspaces where he thought there wasn't enough light or hint of the outside, he had trompe-l'oeil windows painted that depict meadows beneath cerulean skies. The building containing his office—which he refers to as "the pig's house"—looks like an elaborate Swiss châlet, with a steep narrow stairway made of laminated blocks of golden pine, and a flying bridge with small doorways on either side. Once, Alpert told me, when Miyazaki looked out and noticed a procession of preschoolers walking by on the street, he invited them in, "and just gave them free rein and they ran up and down the stairs and onto the bridge, screaming and laughing."

From the garden, we could hear taiko drums thumping out a dance for a neighborhood festival, and see a flamboyant sunset over the old pine trees that remain in this neighborhood, unlike in so many others around Tokyo. With surprising enthusiasm, Miyazaki brought up the subject of environmental apocalypse. "Our population could just suddenly dip and disappear!" he said, flourishing his cigarette in the air. "I talked to an expert on this recently, and I said, 'Tell me the truth.' He said with mass consumption continuing as it is we will have less than fifty years. Then it will all be like Venice. I think maybe less, more like forty. I'm hoping I'll live another thirty years. I want to see the sea rise over Tokyo and the NTV tower become an island. I'd like to see Manhattan underwater. I'd like to see when the human population plummets and there are no more high-rises, because nobody's buying them. I'm excited about that. Money and desire—all that is going to collapse, and wild green grasses are going to take over."

He said that he'd visited the office tower of NTV, a Japanese television network, the day before: "I climbed two hundred and six metres up, to where the red lights are to warn the planes. You could see the whole city. And I thought, This place is haunted, doomed. All those buildings. All those cubicles."

Suzuki joined us, and Takahata sat down without greeting anyone, delicately removing an enormous black ant from his pants leg. He said that he'd been reading a French novel in which ants are highly intelligent and can read. Somebody mentioned E. O. Wilson's work on insects and their elaborate forms of communication.

"How are your frogs, by the way?" Suzuki asked Miyazaki, who explained that he kept them in a pond at home.

"I'm trying to keep track of how many tadpoles I have, but how can I? I can't write numbers on their backs."

The three men talked for a while about frogs and dragonflies and cicadas, and how the Japanese grasshopper population is declining because of overdevelopment. All of them warmed to the topic. "There's an abandoned house near mine, and I want to buy it and keep it wild," Miyazaki said. "Let all the wild grasses grow over it. It's amazing how much they grow—their living energy. I wouldn't cut the grass at all, but then there's always the old ladies who come along with their hedge trimmers and scold you. We'll have to wait for that generation to die off. Until then, we'll never see grass like I want to see grass."

He was not a gardener himself, he said. "Gardening is my wife's territory. But, when she gardens, it's like a holocaust. You see a bug? It's evil. You have to exterminate it. Even the weeds—poor plants—she just yanks them out." He smiled." It's not ecological at all. It's fascism." Japan should start a new form of agriculture, he proclaimed, then admitted, "I can't do it. I'm not the farmer type, so I just complain."

I noted that he had donated the "Totoro" licensing rights to a nature trust to help buy up some nearby woodlands and preserve them from development. "Oh, it's not much of a wood, but we try to do something," he said. Takahata spoke up: "If you add up all the land you've saved, it's vast." Miyazaki shrugged.

I asked him if he'd ever want to live anywhere else—he seemed so bitter about Japan's environmental depredations. "No," he said. "Japan is fine—because they speak Japanese. I like Ireland, though, the countryside there. Dublin has too many yuppies, computer types, but I like the countryside, because it's poorer than England." He mentioned liking Potsdam, in Germany, and the decrepit castle at Sans Souci. "Sometimes I encounter places that I feel as though I saw as a boy. A certain light in an old kind of town. Like in Tarkovsky's films, that feeling is always there. I felt that way about a town in Estonia that I visited." Miyazaki added that he didn't really find travel relaxing; he found walking relaxing—that was the way human beings were meant to relax, and he expressed the wish that he "could walk back and forth to work every day, except that it would take two and a half hours each way," and then he wouldn't have enough time to work.

This remark suddenly seemed to remind him of all the work that he had to do. Miyazaki turned to leave, and Suzuki and Takahata, along with other staff members, began drifting away.

On the train ride back to downtown Tokyo, I thought about how kind and humane Miyazaki's films typically are, and how harsh he had often sounded in person. I decided to admire this dichotomy as an example of what the social critic Antonio Gramsci called "pessimism of the intellect, optimism of the will." An interviewer once remarked to Miyazaki that his movies expressed "hope and a belief in the goodness of man." Miyazaki replied that he was, in fact, a pessimist. He then added, "I don't want to transfer my pessimism onto children. I keep it at bay. I don't believe that adults should impose their vision of the world on children. Children are very much capable of forming their own visions.
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The superb Margaret Talbot may be read frequently in The New Yorker, as well as The Atlantic Monthly, The New York Times Magazine, and Salon. She also has been an editor at Lingua Franca and The New Republic.

See which other films, besides Miyazaki's, are my favorites here.

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